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An apartment in Macau’s central Taipa district is home to Niall and Bolor Murray who set down roots here twenty years ago and have become well known and respected fixtures in the local business community

Veteran gaming expert and consultant Niall Murray arrived in Macau 2004, coming from the Venetian in Las Vegas to join the opening team for Sands as their Senior Director.  The first casino in Macau to be operated by an American concessionaire since the liberalization of the gaming industry Sands took Macau by storm.  For those visitors who had never been to Vegas it was a wonder to behold; the shining gold building, the many new and exciting innovations in décor, food, beverage and gaming, all setting the bar for what was to come over the following years on the peninsula and on the newly constructed Cotai strip.  The story goes that the USD260 million investment in Sands Macau was paid off from gaming revenues within 10 months!

Born in Dublin, Ireland, Niall trained as a hotelier gaining a joint degree in hotel, restaurant and catering management and then a BSc in management from Trinity College.  “From college I went to Disney Paris for 4 years as a management trainee for their opening.  Then in 1994 I was off to New York as Hotel Duty Manager for the Ritz Carlton Central Park and then the Four Seasons.  I made the move to Las Vegas in 1997 for Caesars Palace and shortly after to the Venetian where I found what I’d learned from Disney, their consistency and their systems, to be invaluable.”  Today Niall holds the prestigious Senior Professional in Human Resource Management designation from SHRM, is a Certified Management Consultant with the Institute of Management Consultants, and a member of the Project Management Institute.

In 2006 serendipity played her hand in Niall’s life; when attending a conference in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia he was met at the Chinggis Khan airport by the hosts together with a translator, Bolormaa Ganbold.  Taking a break from the conference Niall asked if there was an Irish bar nearby.  As luck would have it there was; he and Bolor went for coffee where Bolor, wanting to be polite and reciprocate a cultural experience, tried her first Irish coffee.  “Within a few minutes the whiskey went straight to my head, my face was all red” she laughs.  The two fell in love and two months later Bolor followed Niall to Macau and the rest is history as they say.  Today they are proud parents of two handsome young boys, Sean aged 2, Niall aged 1 and an adopted teenage daughter from Mongolia, Egshiglen.

Founder and Chairman of Murray International Group, a strategic and operations development consulting company, and with over 30 years’ experience under his belt Niall has built a reputation as one of the leading experts in designing, developing, opening and operating the world’s largest and most successful integrated resorts and multi-use properties.  He worked on the successful Gaming License Application process for Sands in Macau and Singapore and led the pre-opening, critical path and on-going operations development process at a number of properties in Macau as a Strategic Consultant and Director of Operations Development. “At Murray International we specialize in three key areas” he explains, “strategic development, operations development and project management and in optimization of financial results, operational performance and guest and team member satisfaction though customized solutions based on industry best practices, processes, procedures, systems and standards.  Over the past 20 years we have seen Macau’s gaming industry become quite mature but looking further afield we are excited and upbeat about business opportunities with expanding casino businesses within Asia particularly in Thailand, the Philippines and Singapore.”

A self-confessed action-oriented person, Niall thrives on a busy life, he’s always on the go.  In addition to his ‘day job’, which in itself involves both work and a lot of socializing, he and Bolor are owners of Prem1er Bar & Tasting Room, a popular watering hole in Old Taipa Village, which they opened on Niall’s birthday in September 2015. Serving gastro-pub food and a wide range, some exclusive imports of spirits, infusions, wines, beers and cocktails, it’s a cozy gathering place for locals, expats and tourists exploring the backstreets of the village.

As if all this was not busy enough, plus raising a young family, Niall is studying for his MBA in International Management and Bolor, having recently completed her Masters in International Integrated Resort Management is now applying for her PhD.

And in their spare time? Niall is the Founder and Chairman of the Irish Chamber of Commerce of Macau and is a member of the Irish Chambers of Commerce of Hong Kong and Singapore.  He is a Founding Member of the Macau European Chamber of Commerce and the Irish Whiskey Society of Hong Kong and Macau.  Niall is the Honorary Representative of The Mongolian National Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Macau.  He and Bolor are active members of Chaine des Rotisseurs, SKAL, L’Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne and the Wine Society of Macau.

When he first arrived in Macau Niall rented in Orchid and then Begonia courts in Ocean Gardens.  In 2008 he bought a 4-bedroom, 3-bathroom, 2100 sq ft. apartment in the then brand-new Supreme Flower City.  Block 1 is situated at the southern end of Macau’s “Golden Rectangle”, otherwise known as Central Park.  Some modifications were needed before moving in.  Part of the primary bedroom was shaved off and incorporated into the ensuite bathroom making room for a large shower while still keeping the bath, and a double vanity.  The little balcony off the kitchen was closed in so as to accommodate a laundry. The kitchen was opened up by removing the wall and door separating it from the dining room and installing a bar with a beautiful live-edge wood top. Three oversized wood stools from China tuck up to the bar – “we often sit here and have a meal when it’s just the two of us.”

When it comes to home-life, the Murrays value their creature comforts; good food, good wine, good conversation over a leisurely meal.  Visitors are welcomed and put immediately at ease with a sense of warmth, relaxation and coziness; deep sink-in comfy sofa and armchairs, cushioned bay window sills, wood flooring, large flat screen TV in a built-in wall cabinet and floor to ceiling book-lined shelves.  A voracious book collector and reader Niall explains that “these shelves came in from our previous home in Ocean Gardens and we were pleased they fitted in so well. But it meant that we needed to relocate the two living room ACs so that one is between the living-dining, facing and helping cool the kitchen and the other is nearer the entrance, so cooling the dining room.  In the bedrooms we installed built in wardrobes with mirrored sliders.”  Of the 4 bedrooms, three are located off the corridor from the living-dining room, the primary bedroom is at the far end, then next to it is the boys’ nursery, the third bedroom is set up as a study and the fourth nearest the kitchen with its own bathroom is Egshiglen’s.

For the Murrays, Covid was a double-edged sword – while ‘trapped’ in Mongolia for over two years, it firstly meant that Niall could spend quality time with Bolor’s family there, exploring the amazing countryside. “Macau can feel a bit small at times” he says.  “I love driving and I hate feeling that in 30 minutes I’ve done the whole loop.  In Mongolia we can get in the car and 23 hours later we get to our destination!  But I occasionally get to pop over to Hong Kong to join the Irish community events there.”   Then when they were able to travel, they spent time with Niall’s eldest daughter Cara and family in Ireland.  And importantly it meant they had time to focus on having their two sons. 

What else about Macau do the couple feel?  “Weatherwise I don’t like Macau’s humid weather” stresses Niall, “I loved Vegas; sunny, hot, dry every day.  In Mongolia the weather is deceptive – you wake up, look out the window, see blue skies and sunshine, but three quarters of the year its freezing outside!”  “Ah, I like the humid weather, it’s good for the skin!” laughs Bolor. “I hate that there’s no bookshops, I’m a book addict” says Niall. 

“I love everything about Macau” enthuses Bolor, “the village lifestyle, the safety. This is home.  I love this building, this location.  I can walk out the door, and there are what, 7 supermarkets within a minute’s walk, there’s the parks for the kids, the restaurants, takeaways. We are only 5 minutes’ drive to the Kid’s Club at the Venetian”.  “Cheap taxis” Niall adds and “good and inexpensive restaurants”.  And it’s easy to get home help with two boisterous young boys!  “We decided to send the boys to the nearby kindergarten run in Chinese and then have them do the first few years of schooling in Chinese, then switch to English.”  That way they can enjoy the best of both cultures in this cultural melting pot of Macau.

Text and photographs by Suzanne Watkinson for the Macau Closer magazine

Murray International Group, Niall Murray can be reached at: Direct Line:  +853 2881 1000 Mobile: +853 6613 8133 WeChat ID: Niallsmurray E: [email protected] W: www.MurrayInternationalGroup.com

After living in central Taipa for the past two decades, long-time residents of Macau, Guy and Vicky Lesquoy recently moved to Jardin Tjoi Long Wai Toi.  This north shore Taipa apartment with its blend of European chic and Asian elegance, stunning Macau skyline and sea views offers a welcomed change of scene.

When a young businessman and entrepreneur from Macau visited Paris in the late 70’s, he greatly admired the exotic dancing performances of the famous Crazy Horse Show.  His name was Stanley Ho.  Little did he know, as he negotiated with the show’s French manager to bring it to Macau that it would be a turning point in the city’s history for entertainment.  The Crazy Paris Show, with its 20 beautiful and risque aesthetic nude dancers arrived in 1979.  First housed in the re-outfitted Dom Pedro V theater which was located across the street from St Joseph’s church and the seminary, considerable diplomatic skills and charm were needed to appease the authorities.

That French manager was none other than Guy Lesquoy, a beloved, respected, personality-about-town who today celebrates 45 years in Macau.  The grandson of a governor of the Ivory Coast in Africa, a linguist speaking 7 languages and groomed by the family to be a diplomat himself, who better to set about building the relationships needed to sell the show to an audience steeped in ‘450 years of religious influence’.  And with a concentration on quality and the exemplary behaviour of the dancers, it soon became Macau’s only true entertainment show at the time, bringing in crowds to fill the 250-seat theatre, at times almost half of them being women!

As part of his networking within the community – and to learn Cantonese – Guy joined Clube Miltar and the Tenis Civil often playing tennis with Stanley Ho.  “I was a dancer too – he loved ballroom dancing – and we played bridge so we got on well.”

“I was born in Marseilles and grew up in Corsica; when I arrived in Macau I felt the place had a very Mediterranean influence.  People loved football, they loved good food and good wine and most of the Portuguese at that time could speak French so I was immediately taken under the wings of the old timers in Macau” recalls Guy.  He joined Rotary, he played handball and football; a keen sportsman he played on Macau’s first division soccer team for 17 years.

After 13 years Guy left the show and returned to France but his love for Macau soon pulled him back.  With characteristic energy and enthusiasm he threw himself into life here again; “I am the most Portuguese French guy who is proud to be seen as a Macau boy!”  Guy was influential in getting the Macau chapter of Alliance Francais started, he is involved in the French-Macau Chamber of Commerce, the Macau-European Chamber of Commerce, promotion of travel and tourism through SKAL, Founding member of Anima – Society for Protection of Animals, the Wine Society, Association of Aeronautics and active member and past president of Rotary International de Macao.  He’s worked as PR for the Macau Government Tourist Office and also on the organizing team for the East Asian Games in 2005.  In 2006 he joined the senior management team for entertainment at Sands China developing their Streetmosphere entertainment and later opening The Parisian as their Executive Director of Entertainment.

Together with Vicky, Guy’s Hungarian wife of 22 years, they cut a dashing couple, attending events and giving back to the community in various charitable ways from visiting elderly homes to planting trees to being leading lights in the rehoming of over 500 greyhounds once the Canidrome closed.  This month they have just returned from representing Macau at the SKAL International Conference 2024 in Turkey.

And what about the homes Guy and Vicky have lived in over the years?  “We lived in Penha, then Wa Boa in Taipa, and for the past 20 or so years in Nova Taipa Garden.  “There’s a lot to be said for living on the ‘Golden Rectangle’, otherwise known as Central Park.  We loved our apartment, we were very happy there, and though a little dark, it looked out on to the Park, the location was convenient and it had plenty of room for our guests.” 

However it was time for a change and in the summer this year Guy and Vicky moved to 3-bedroom, 2 bathroom Jardin Tjoi Long Wai Toi with this time a spacious balcony.  “As soon as we first stepped foot in this apartment, even though the place was in poor condition we immediately felt its potential, with the light streaming in through all the many windows and the wonderful sea views. We have windows that pretty much wrap around on 3 sides. We love all the natural light, it’s like a holiday resort. We feel like we’re on vacation here!”

“Quite a lot of renovation and upgrade work needed to be done in the kitchen and bathrooms, painting throughout and repairs to the wood flooring but we negotiated a 6-year lease and fair rent which enabled us to afford to arrange for the work ourselves.”  

From the entrance hallway with a stunning Chinese cabinet to the left the visitor is ushered straight in to the open dining and living area.  Past the large round dining table and 6 white upholstered armchairs with window looking out to a green view, pool and the lower ramparts of the Macao University of Tourism.  On through to the living room; dominated by 2-piece, sink-in yellow sofas and armchair, Indonesian style bow-legged coffee table, pale cream rug and a wood panel feature wall, one is struck immediately by the tasteful elegance and comfort of this room.  From the big windows treated with simple, white floaty curtains come the brightness and impressive views of Macau’s famed skyline.  Central to the windows, 2 graceful Chinese-style wood chairs with side table and a blue base lamp tip their hats to Asian influence.  The balcony with its lounge chair is to the right.

Adjacent to the balcony and off the living room is an alcove area which promises to be a studio for Vicky to pursue her considerable talents in pottery-making.  A film and journalism graduate Vicky’s first love has always been in art and ceramics.  After working 10 years for the Venetian Macau in their Conventions and Exhibitions department, now retired she’s intending go back to her artistic roots “with the help of my lovely ceramic artist teacher Gweneth.” (‘Hunt for Ceramics’ Instagram account: hunt_for_ceramics)

A series of four paintings hang on the walls; these have very special meaning to Guy.  They are images of famous dances; Swan Lake, Black Swan, Don Quixote and La Sylphide.  ”I feel so proud to have these, they are beautifully painted by a recovering drug addict at the ARTM detoxification and rehabilitation centre at Ka Ho.” 

Now Guy and Vicky have more time on their hands the game plan is to travel to their various properties in Mauritius, Corsica and Hungary (Budapest on the Danube and Balaton Lake, the biggest unsalted lake in the world) to visit family and friends.  Never for too long however; Macau is their main home and they don’t like to be away from their adored dog Lucy for more than a few weeks.  “When we travel Lucy is well taken care of by Eyline our housekeeper, but we still miss her too much when we are away!”

As Guy exclaims, “this new home of ours is fantastic, just downstairs there’s lots of nature, there’s the beach (one day I hope to arrange a beach clearance programme perhaps as an activity with my Rotary friends), greenery, its safe for dog walking.  Then of course Macau has marvelous walking trails; in the cooler months Vicky, Lucy and I take to the Coloane hills every weekend, we love it.”

Text and photographs by Suzanne Watkinson

John and Tammy Lou bought their 2-bedroom apartment in the then brand new PakLok Garden, Central Taipa in 1984, when it was one of the few high-rises in the area.  The building is famed for its friendly, predominantly owner-occupied neighbours.  The Lou’s home is a show case to their interests and treasured collectibles.

In the ‘70s and ‘80s John Lou was a member of the Hyatt Regency Resort (now the Regency Art Hotel), where he exercised regularly. Having grown up in the hustle and bustle of Calcada de Monte by the Portuguese Consulate building, the emptiness of Taipa was an attraction; he would jog across the then only bridge between Macau and Taipa to the Resort and around parts of Taipa and started appreciating the quiet of this less populated area.  When the bridge fee (a charge of MOP5.00 to cross) was cancelled the Resort gained a lot more members coming over from Macau.  

In those days Taipa and Coloane were considered virtually ‘rural’, there were only few apartment towers and no CoTai.  The tallest building at the time was the Staff Accommodation for the Jocky Club.  When chatting with his Resort member friends John discovered that two new apartment blocks were being built next door.  He went to investigate and decided that it would be a good opportunity to buy there.  “We specifically chose a middle floor, the eleventh”, he explains, “as it’s too hot on the higher floors and if the lifts ever break down, it’s more accessible being not so high. We moved in late 1986 and since then, over the 40 years, we’ve carried out three renovations.” The layout is unchanged, an open living-dining area, small balcony and teeny kitchen, one bathroom, 2 spacious bedrooms, ideal for John’s family of 3.  “We renewed the bathroom; new water pipes needed doing after 30 years.  The apartment flooring laid 20 years ago is Spanish tiling, better than wood as it doesn’t scratch and doesn’t absorb moisture which could be a problem if my dog has an accident!”

Ever the practical couple the Lous furnished the home almost entirely with IKEA – sideboard, shelves, cabinets, sofa, coffee table, lounge chair. The solid wood dining table and chairs from China are an exception.

And on the shelves, one begins to learn of the couple’s various interests and hobbies. “I’m fascinated with Japanese culture, and in particular their tea ceremony – I collect Japanese Nambu cast iron kettles known as Tetsubin鐵壺which impart a gentle and delicate quality to the tea ceremony.  Nambu ironware南部鐵器has a history going back to the mid-17th century.  For the past 170 years skilled foundry artisans and master craftsmen have been producing these beautiful kettles and I enjoy collecting them.”

“I’m also a collector of ‘Fire King’, the brand of oven glass cups and saucers first made by American glass manufacturing company Anchor Hocking in the early ‘40s.”  Cups, plates, and tableware are rarely linked to trends; however, these can be regarded as an exception. It is much sought after by antique tableware enthusiasts and fashionistas in the USA and Japan.  Made of hard boron glass and characterized by its jade-green appearance and good resistance to damage it was initially produced for American restaurants; the thick and durable Restaurant Ware series is the design that many Fire King fans want to buy now.  Discontinued in the USA, in 2011 a Japanese company bought the Fire King copyright and reproduces it, making the name Fire King continue to appear in the market.  Although the texture of the Japanese replica is different from the American original, it has become extremely popular among the Japanese and attracted the attention of the fashion industry. “I became a fan of all the different colours and collect from Hong Kong and on Ebay”, smiles John, “but my favourite is the emerald green Jadeite design – it even appeared in the famous movie ‘In the Mood for Love’ (2000) by Wong Kar Wai, staring Tony Leung Chiu-wai, Maggie Cheung, Siu Ping-Lam!”

And what’s the story of the large red and white rocket standing in the corner of the living room? This is from John’s Tintin memorabilia.  A popular European comic series created by Belgian cartoonist Georges Remi writing under the pen name Hergé, The Adventures of Tintin tells the tales of a young reporter Tintin, his dog Snowy and various friends.  Published in more than 70 languages with sales of copies in the millions it has been adapted for radio, television, theatre and film.   ‘Explorers on the Moon’ is the 17^th volume first coming out in 1952. The narrative tells of Tintin, Snowy and friends who are aboard humanity’s first crewed rocket mission to the Moon.  “My rocket was a gift from a friend!”

Another give-away to John’s passions is the swords and sticks. “Along with my family, there are 3 things I love in my life: movies, music and martial arts.  I never miss any classical performances in the Macau Music festival. And martial arts is my life, I’ve been practicing it since the age of 12.  At first Chinese Kung Fu, then I moved to Japanese Budo.  When I started Japanese martial arts I originally focused on Kendo with my first sensei (teacher) Luis Trabuco.  Then I followed Hachi Moto sensei to learn Iaido, the technique using swords – I’m a 5^th Dan (there are 10 Dan, with 8 being realistically the maximum level.  I’m training for my 6^th Dan). In Jordo, the technique using a stick, I’m 3^rd Dan.  I go to Japan this November to take the 4^th Dan Grade exams.  With a success rate of only 25% I hope I can pass!”

John teaches four, 2-hour martial arts classes each week.  His students range from children and adults, aged 6-78, and they are a mix of locals, Filipino, Canadian, American and others.  “I go to Japan three times a year for training and to take students there for their exams. Its very time consuming and I don’t do it for the money, it’s my passion.  My main purpose is to promote and preserve this kind of traditional art.  We don’t use weapons to attack or protect us, we have our police force for that – no, we use the weapons to train our minds, to develop ourselves.” 

In keeping with a love of all things Japanese, the energetic little puppy that John recently adopted is a Shibainu, a Japanese hunting dog.  Her name is Nadeshiko, translated to ‘beloved or dear child’, literally ‘child being petted’. The combination of these two meanings indicates a flower of the Japanese nation, that is, a standard of female beauty that is uniquely Japanese.

John’s family originally hailed from Shinhui, Guangdong, moving to Macau in the early 1920s. “I’m 100% Chinese, born here, 4^th generation Macau, and I’m now 73!” he says proudly.  

John’s career began in 1972 when he joined Macau’s electric utility company CEM as a fresh graduate from the Perpetual Help College.  (Reader, did you know that CEM, Companhia de Electricidade de Macau, was originally named MELCO … which today is a well-known and respected local company that among other things is the concessionaire of City of Dreams and Studio City … and did you know that MELCO stands for Macau Electric Lighting Company?!)  Having a strong command of English John was put in charge of the workshop department; being young and not in the least technical he was teased by the older, experienced technicians, but through sheer force of personality, charm and likability he soon earned their respect and friendship.  He stayed with CEM for 46 years, spending 20 years in HR and the latter years in Public Relations.  During his illustrious career with CEM John attended the long-distance learning marketing degree programme with the East Asian University, the precursor of today’s Macau University.   “Tammy also had a long career – 30 years with the Service Department of STDM, supporting VIPs with their travel arrangements between Macau and Hong Kong.”

“I retired from CEM in 2017.  Then in 2019 I was approached to join the Rui Cunha Foundation administration department.”  The Foundation, established by lawyer Rui Cunha and his sons in April 2012 is a service to the community, promoting Macau’s unique culture through the gathering of local artists, musicians and thought leaders of the day.  “After 3 months I was transferred to their Social and Culture Department as coordinator and curator of exhibitions and events. We have a full schedule but that’s good as I’m an active person, I like to be busy.  6 years in the job and I’m really enjoying what I do.  Helping people organize numerous exhibitions and events successfully gives me a sense of achievement.”

An open book as the saying goes, John explains that he’s “easy going, talkative – communication skills is essential for survival.  I’m not shy, I’m not private, I participate in a lot of interviews in Hong Kong, helping to promote Macau. My face is often on TV for various advertisements.  I’m known as “Uncle John”.  I have an agent that calls me when extras are needed for films or promotions.

And what does John love about Macau?  “We moved to Taipa forty years ago and really like the environment, our friendly neighbours, I know everyone in the building, it’s like the old neighbourhood that I grew up in, but in a modern high-rise.  I have my car park, the surroundings are good, I can walk my dog.  There’s lots of restaurants around us.  GrandMart Japanese supermarket is nearby so I can buy all my Japanese products for when I cook.  I use Japanese rice – after trying that rice, no other rice is better.  I love cooking for people who enjoy food; when my grandchildren visit I always cook for them.  I like the intimacy of Macau.  I’m content, I lead a busy but quiet life.  Here everywhere is easily accessible – across the border in China there are lots of new places to explore, new restaurants to try. Hong Kong and their international airport are only an hour boat ride away and from Macau we can travel to Japan and Taiwan easily.”

Driven by a sense of adventure, Jose Carlos Pereira arrived in Macau over 30 years ago, to work and to visit places that as a child had fired his imagination.  It was the beginning of a love affair with Asia that would lead to an extraordinary collection of beautiful and priceless antiques.

When on the train from Sintra to Lisbon, clinical laboratory scientist Dr Jose Carlos Pereira bumped into an old colleague who told him she’d moved with her husband to Macau.  Their conversation piqued his interest. Would he like to go to Macau she asked.  Yes!  Well, send me your CV.  This was back in mid-1994 when at the time there were only 2 pathologists in our public hospital Conde de Sao Januario. 

Excited and full of anticipation, Jose confesses that he was at first underwhelmed when he arrived.  “Macau’s weather in September can be very cloudy and I’m used to the sunshine and cobalt blue skies of Portugal. Everywhere was grey, the water was brown, and the caged balconies … it was a culture shock.  I knew no one, my friend who’d initially invited me over was traveling, so for the first 15 days I found it lonely.”  Gradually Jose began meeting friends of friends from back home and people he’d meet at musical evenings and at art exhibitions.  He would join them for dinner afterwards and soon become part of a good social group and start planning early on to join others on a first Asian adventure out of Macau – to Burma!

For the first four weeks Jose stayed in the Beverly Hotel, which is within a 15-minutes’ walk to the hospital so he could be on call for any emergencies. 

Eventually he was convinced by a landscape architect friend to move to up-and-coming to Taipa where he secured an apartment in Hoi Yi Fa Yuen.  “At the time it had wonderful sea views of the outer harbour, the city scape, the night time neons of the Macau skyline.”  And then, to the side, Nova City began emerging.  Time to move on; and after 2 years Jose returned to Portugal where he stayed for the next 6 years, working in Faro, Caldas da Rainha and Lisbon. 

Then in 2002 Jose was invited again to help cover staff shortages in the laboratories of Sao Januario: 3 colleagues were going on maternity leave so Jose soon found himself on his way back to Macau to provide cover – a year at most he was told, during which time he could also explore a little bit more of Asia.  Like many from overseas who come to Macau for work this short-term mission turned into 2 years – and eventually into 20 years!

So he packed up and headed back; “I arrived on the 3 January 2003”.   Thus began Jose’s next Macau chapter, a series of “twenty times, 1-year contracts!” he laughs.

Both sets of Jose’s grandparents moved from Portugal to Angola, Africa in the early 1900’s “looking for a better life in the Colonies.”   His father was born and raised in Africa where he became an industrial designer for the CFB railway company and met his mother who was an accountant.  They went on to have Jose and his younger siblings all born in Lobito, Angola.  Tragedy struck in 1971 when at 11 years old Jose’s father died.   For his mother, personally, emotionally and financially it was a very traumatic situation for the young widow, with 3 sons and a fourth on the way, and with no immediate family support system nearby.  As the 1975 civil war in the area caused further hardship, she moved to the capital, Luanda, and spent 15 more years working to continue earning money to support the family and to see Jose through his university medical studies where he specialized in clinical pathology.

The family eventually settled back in Portugal, in the charming resort town of Sintra. 

From a young age Jose had collected stamps and coins; as a boy visiting his grandparents he recalls discovering some coins in an old sewing machine drawer.  Old coins, some 60 to 80 years old by then, some from the late monarchy and from the first Republic of Portugal, others from the Belgian Congo coming from his grandfather’s job as he had traveled the train line through all Angola to the Belgium Congo borders.  They inspired Jose’s imagination of stories from magical far-flung places.  Now based in Asia his interest in collecting began in earnest.  Days off were spent rummaging through the little dusty ‘holes in the wall’ shops of old Macau and Hong Kong, hunting down treasures.

“I’ve always been a collector at heart – when I travel, I like going to the markets.  At the beginning I started with little knowledge and I didn’t have any particular objective for collecting, I would just buy what I liked or triggered attention. 

One day, some 13 or 14 years ago, I was strolling around the narrow lanes of old Macau with a German friend who could speak Cantonese.  I spotted a duck – porcelain, with chips and legs broken and glued back, but with a seal on its underneath.  The seller wanted MOP 1,000 – my friend thought I was mad to even consider buying such a chipped, cracked piece.  I left the duck and over the next 3 or 4 years I’d often pass the shop and look in to see it sitting on the top shelf, continuing to gather dust.  As time passed the duck remained on my mind.  I pursued my interest in antiques and occasionally would buy a book or two from the Museum gift shop each time I visited an exhibition at the Cultural Centre.  Browsing one day, I turned the page and there was my duck, exactly, and described as a Ming incense burner.  I rushed over to buy the duck …. but the shop owner wasn’t selling – others had been asking about it too.”  It took Jose another two years to convince the owner to sell – and in the end he bought it for … MOP 2,000!

The duck became Jose’s mascot and marked the start of a more systematic and knowledgeable approach to collecting and to negotiating.  “I cannot fix the money but I can fix ignorance”; he started studying, reading voraciously on Chinese history, ceramics, symbolism, styles – “it’s all related to art, religion and culture, all linked with history” – and making conscious purchases to add to his collection.   As his knowledge increased and his tastes refined, Jose started visiting the antique shops that line the streets by St. Paul’s façade and the whole Chinese bazar, learning and buying from the antique dealers, several of whom over the years have become close friends.  “They helped educate my eyes”, he explains, “it was an epiphany, something new started in my life”, a real passion and appreciation for the beauties of Asian art.

“My collecting now is driven by intuition.  A combination of educated eyes, experience, knowledge, and …luck !  I’ve reached the level where I can follow my intuition.  The reality, genuineness, the honesty is in the piece.  Quality has a voice and doesn’t cheat you.  I’ve learned how to separate the wheat from the chaff.”

While Jose’s primary focus is on Chinese ceramics, terracotta, porcelain, stoneware, “All arts of fire”, he also owns a fine collection of classical Chinese paintings, rugs from China, Khotan in Xinjiang, northwest China and Ningxia, northcentral China, Tibet, Beijing and central Asia.  And Southeast Asian textiles and carvings, many from Ubud, Bali.  “I’m not very knowledgeable about Indonesian crafts; when I’m on my travels I buy what I like, what I can afford, and what I can carry!   The furniture that I’ve bought, the various Chinese cabinets for example, were due to circumstances and opportunity, I happen to be somewhere, I liked what I saw so I bought them.” “Lately I’ve been buying jade accessories and amulets from several periods of Chinese history”

It’s all very much related to the people I meet.  I don’t buy from auctions – it’s too sterile for me, sitting at my desk, pouring over my computer.”  He enjoys the social interaction with dealers, yet he buys alone, savoring in the buzz and excitement of unearthing treasures. “I won’t have people tagging along with me … a tiger hunts alone!” he laughs.

“I look for the unique, things with bizarre singularity” he says, holding up a large decorative jade chop.  “And for the Chinese, items tend not to be simply decorative but they have more of a metaphysical, mystic or mythical element – made to help the dead in their afterlife or as auspicious gifts, for example. Over the years I’ve self-educated through catalogues, blogs, books, exhibitions and through friends, friends like Mae Ho, whose shop is near St. Antonio’s church, through my friendship with her I’ve learned so much, especially about pieces from the Classic era of China.  I’ve learned about the famous kilns around different parts of China, about the different materials used by the craftsmen.  The chemistry and physics of how ceramics ingredients are mixed and fired and their final reactions are familiar to me due to my line of work”, he explains.

“I’ve never counted my pieces but certainly we’re now into the thousands. Does he keep an inventory?  Yes, and this is divided into months and years.    Much of his collection is now in Portugal; “I’ve made several shipments back to Portugal over the years.” 

And what about sharing his collection with others?  Should some of the pieces perhaps be in a Museum to be enjoyed by many?  Jose bought a shop in Sintra, a while back, originally for his younger brother to have an office there, but as that didn’t happen, he now plans to use it to display some of his treasures and set up a club of friends and other likeminded people interested in Asian arts and antiques, to gather over coffee or drinks, and to share his wonderful finds.  “An atmosphere much like Macau Soul here in Macau – relaxed, friendly”, he smiles.

And once retirement comes around, what’s the plan then?  “I still want to travel, to know Europe better, whilst I have the stamina and the will.  And eventually I will spend some time in Asia.  Ubud, in Bali, is my favorite place in Asia – so perhaps I will spend 3 months of the year there.”  Just like Chatuchak weekend market in Bangkok, Ubud is an artistic hub. Artists from around the world have been drawn to the creative energy there since the late 19 century, making their own schools and leaving an imprint on the local artistic scene. Locals took some of this ‘flavor’ and mixed it with their own traditional crafts to what is now a blend of exotic Australasian with Western-influences. Merchants from far and wide take their wares to Bali for the tourists: paintings, textiles, carvings, so it’s a great place for a keen collector!

And Macau, what does Jose like about living here?   “It’s a convenient town to get around and I really enjoy my job and my colleagues.  It’s an ideal location for traveling and exploring other corners of Asia.  I came here initially because I was driven by adventure and exotics.  I wanted to visit places, to know different cultures.  My friends and family were enthusiastic – go, take a look, Macau is close to Japan, Southeast Asia, Indonesia, Australia…  My mind was full of imagination.  As a child, my father would show me his world globe, I’d read books about the world, I became familiar with these places although they were very distant from my home.”  Through the years, that distance is no longer; Macau (and Asia) has become as much a sense of home as his roots in Portugal.

Article by Suzanne Watkinson of Ambiente Properties, for the July-August edition of Macau Closer magazine. Photos by Jose Carlos Pereira. .

While the rest of Macau prospers and hurtles into the modern era, No. 5 Patio de Lourenϛo Marques is an example of the parts of Macau that have been left behind. Tucked away down a narrow backstreet this elegant 2-storey building had long fallen into disrepair. It took the courage and determination of Macau resident and entrepreneur Lydia Chan Lai Chan to tackle a year-long renovation to bring the house back to life again.

For several months Lydia Chan was searching for a place for a studio workshop where she could pursue her interests in porcelain painting and have as a general gathering place for friends, students and clients.

When she first set eyes on No. 5, Patio de Lourenϛo Marques she fell in love! Situated on one of Macau’s historic pátios (圍) that pepper the old parts of the city, the house had long fallen into disuse, left vacant and dilapidated for many years, a tree growing through a crumbling wall, part of the roof caved in; never mind, Lydia saw the potential of this heritage beauty, it was the perfect place. 

Patios are a unique urban feature in Macau; there are about 200, most having been organically shaped from winding lanes and low-rise buildings, often triangles or trapezoids, small, intimate and peaceful public courtyards hidden away from the busy commercial areas down narrow alleyways and serving as shared communal space for those who live around them.  In the past residents preferred to build houses around the central courtyard so that they could easily share resources, work and social support.  A refuge from the urban hustle and bustle the patios offer a glimpse into its multicultural heritage and community-oriented roots these public spaces feel worlds apart from modern Macau’s fast-faced lifestyle and shiny glass tower blocks.

Commissioned by Mr Ko Hoi Kee (this author recently met Mr Ko’s grandson in Macau) and designed by Hong Kong architect Mr Tam Tung, No. 5 was built in 1933.  In 1981 it was transferred to Mr Ko’s relative Wen Tong.  As the years went by the descendants of the Wen family gradually passed away and the property is currently owned by Sociedade De Investimento Predial Heep Wu Limitada company.  “I found the owners on Facebook” Lydia exclaims, “and I persuaded them to rent to me, assuring them that I would take care of the house, that I would revitalize and bring it back to life.”

With determination she set about designing the renovations, supervising, financing and sometimes doing some of the work herself in order to resurrect this elegant old ‘lady’.   A project not for the fainthearted it took over a year before Lydia was finally able to start moving in.  “I had a design company, Olive Design, near the Red Market for about 7 years, 2015-2021, and a small construction team that did the renovation, so I knew what we were committing to.”

“The ceilings are wood, so they needed to be repaired and treated and we’ve added some ceiling fans for air circulation during the hotter months”.  The white-washed walls are made of stucco on brick; patches of the stucco have fallen away and expose the brick and the chunambo grouting of sand, rice straw, clay, sugar and ground up oyster shells.  Lydia has chosen to leave these as is so as to pay homage to the building’s heritage.  “The oyster shells will have come from Guangdong.  Did you know that ‘oyster mirror’ is an old name for Macau?”  

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Lydia has raised three sons. Johnson, the eldest, has recently relocated his Yuan Coffee business to No. 5 selling brewed specialty coffee and coffee beans from all around the world.  Middle son Terron is married and living locally; his father-in-law is an expert at repairing wooden doors and furniture so played an important part in the renovations.  And the youngest is Matthew who’s away at university in Canada.  “While the children were growing up, I sold insurance, I’ve been a property investor buying and selling, and I was a volunteer for my church ladies’ group teaching cooking and flower arranging.”  Now the boys have grown up “I want to do what I want to do.  A few years ago, I learned porcelain painting. I love doing this as you can create what you want.  And I want to share this with others.”

From the ground floor, up a flight of metal stairs the first floor is set out as one large main room, a smaller ‘snug’ and another room that doubles as a bathroom and store.  The dominant feature here is the iron frame of a canopy bed. “We found this bed in the house and it’s become an ideal display space for some old painted porcelains” Lydia explains. “I want to make this upstairs area a place to show visitors my collection of some artefacts from old Macau and it can also be hired by local artists to use as a gallery to display their work.”  Track lighting on the ceiling and a projector screen on the wall have been installed to support this purpose.

Hanging in one corner are several jackets, their name tags still intact and showing the tailors that made them. Their company telephone numbers are only 4 digits, compared with the 8 we have today. Wooden easels display photographs of the progress of the building’s renovation and old family photographs.  The ochre, cream and grey floor tiles – their geometric design “from the 70’s” and colours muted over the years – have thankfully been preserved and add to the time-gone-by atmosphere.

A steep wooden staircase leads up to the roof which has been immaculately waterproofed and retiled.  Two seating areas are laid out with an assortment of chairs and little side tables.  “Most of the furniture in this house comes from friends and I pick up some from the streets” smiles Lydia.  Even the curtains on the ground floor started off life as hand quilted bed spreads, found in Chiang Mai and caringly carried back to Macau.  “I love to repurpose and to upcycle things that have been discarded and to give them new life, just like this house.”

With the relaxed, laid-back vibe that has been created in the house, bossa nova music playing in the background and a lingering smell of roast coffee beans and fresh baked goods, Lydia hopes that it can be a gathering place for tourists, for Macau locals, for young people who come to hangout and chat with friends, to and learn about the stories of Macau in the past.  Especially teenagers that may have lost their way or are searching for their path in life, for Lydia, a Christian, “my mission is to help them discover what God wants them to do.”  

Being involved with this revitalization project has given Lydia a sense of connection with her roots; her husband’s grandfather established a family business, Kinmen 1953, which provided fresh pork to restaurants in Macau.  It became a well-established brand name that continues to this day so “when I discovered this building it seemed such a perfect fit for our brand.”

“Many of our restaurant clients were Portuguese; we would be asked what cut of pork would be best for this or that dish so we became familiar with a lot of their traditional recipes. Different families have developed different traditional recipes over the years.” A keen cook Lydia has set up a small kitchen on the ground floor and is continuing an important part of her family’s heritage to cook authentic, traditional specialty dishes like Tacho, a winter stew made from different cuts of park, ham and sausage … time consuming and filling, but soul food!  Other dishes include Portuguese shrimp salad, seafood rice and handmade cured pork and cheese.  She plays host to friends and clients who have the option to dine in or take away.

So what does Lydia appreciate most about living in Macau?   “Macau is a friendly place; the Macau people have open hearts.  And there are so many different and wonderful cuisines.  I love old houses, our historic properties, they make me feel peaceful”, but “I do worry about how small businesses have such a struggle to survive these days.”

Article written by Suzanne Watkinson of Ambiente Properties, for the Macau Closer magazine. Photos by Suzanne

Born in Mozambique, raised in South Africa, Portuguese wife and mother Manuela Sotero moved to Macau in 1999. She brought with her two young children and a soul full of Africa.  Husband Antonio followed soon after and the family quickly made Macau their home.

Manuela Sotero and husband Antonio first visited Macau on holiday.  This was back in 1995 when they were starting to be concerned that violence and personal security was becoming more of an issue in their adopted home South Africa.  Manuela’s sister and brother-in-law were already based in Macau and urged them to seek a safer, gentler life here.

It was not until 4 years later in 1999 that they returned, initially enroute to starting a new life in Australia.    “When we moved here, our son Antonio was 7, and our daughter Ana Claudia was 11.  Our original plan was to move to Australia and that Macau would just be a stepping stone but when we arrived we both immediately got jobs, began making friends and settling.  I worked for 7 years for what is now the Macau Foundation and then was invited to work as an office administrator advisor for BNU/CGD where I had 12 very happy years.  Antonio worked for the Tourism Department on the preparations for the Handover Ceremony (December 1999).  Soon after he joined the law firm C&C as Coordinator.”

But let’s go back a little in time; Manuela has such fascinating stories to tell of her earlier years.  Born in Mozambique of Portuguese parents “I was 4^th generation, my great grandmother moved to Mozambique when she was only 15; she was the youngest Portuguese girl there at the time.  Dad, who was a hard-working entrepreneur jack of all trades, had various business interests from properties and investments to even a large print shop.”  But living in the south of Mozambique, only about 75 miles from Eswatini and South Africa, “his principal business was recruitment liaison between Mozambique’s capital and largest city Lourenço Marques, now Maputo, and the mines in South Africa.” 

During the early 70’s, political instability and civil unrest led to an exodus of many in Mozambique, including Manuela’s family, taking safe haven in nearby South Africa.  She tells of a hair-raising car journey in 1974, fleeing across the border in a 3-car convoy. The cars were packed tightly with our possessions, you couldn’t see out of the windows.  We got to the border and the soldiers manning the gates wanted to inspect all our things.  Thankfully Dad’s African business associate and close family friend Alberto traveling with us helped persuade them not to and we went through without further incident.”

“We were refugees fleeing a frightening uprising in our birth country. South Africa welcomed us and other Portuguese families warmly, providing us with a house, with furniture. There was a lovely garden, huge, all grass and at the end a Chinese-style area. As a young child it was magical. And to our surprise there were no fences, something we’d not been used to in Mozambique. Our furniture followed from Mozambique and our beloved Dachshund Pantufa was smuggled through in one of the cabinets, he didn’t make a sound during the whole journey and at the other end he jumped out and barked with joy!”

Ever since she was about nine years old Manuela’s passion has been in beads and beadmaking.  “My love of beads started back in Mozambique.  Dad would go to a huge market in Lourenço Marques and would bring home pretty beads for me.  I started stringing them along.  When we moved to South Africa I continued working with beads learning techniques here and there.  My cousin Mariza taught me one technique and with this I made a necklace.  One day when I was about 15, my cousin and went shopping and looked in at a little boutique called “Off the Peg”.  I was wearing my necklace and the boutique owner admired it and asked if I could make some exclusively for the shop to sell – my first business venture!” and the genesis of what is now Manuela’s beaded jewelry company Maalé –Design. Creations.

Fast forward a few years Manuela’s artistic talents were in full swing as she sold her jewelry and charming hand painted ceramics in several curio shops that she and her husband Antonio owned.  Theirs was a successful business of 5 shops and 14 vending machines operating in the Wild Coast Sun resort and casino, a 2-hour drive from Durban on a strip of coastline along the Eastern Cape province. 

The Soteros’ first home in Macau was in Nova Taipa Gardens for 7 years, then La Baie du Noble or 14 years.  And now, for the past 3 years, they live in Tjoi Long Meng Chu, Pearl Dragon Building on the north shore of Taipa.  “We’ve been lucky and are very happy here.”

Their 3-bedroom, 2-bathroom home has a terrace with views down over the pool and further out to the outer harbour.  One of the bedrooms is set up as Manuela’s atelier-studio; a bright sunny room from which she can gaze out towards the Macau Tower and seek inspiration!

For the rest of the home, how would Manuela describe her interior design? “My heart is basically the same as my home – it’s a mixture of strong African roots and South East Asian flair. You can take an African out of Africa, but you can’t take Africa out of the African!”

From South Africa came the wood sofa, the wood slatted chair and round side table.  The antique glass-fronted cabinet is also from South Africa, where she keeps favourite pieces of the hand painted ceramics she used to make and sell in their shops.  A wrought iron table at the entrance has a special place in Manuela’s heart – originally at the entrance of her brother’s home, she had it lovingly restored. When she finds damaged or discarded furniture Manuela likes to try to save it.  “I love repurposing, to bring these things back to life.”  A handsome roll top desk was found discarded and was cleaned and restored.  As was the little carved Chinese chest which had been thrown out by a second hand shop near Lotus Garden in Taipa.  It was filled with light bulbs that were even more valuable than the chest!” she smiles. 

The dining table and chairs came from a family that was moving house in Macau: “I loved them at first sight; I fell in love with the chairs and was so happy I could buy them. My tall red chairs also came from them.”

Other treasured possessions: African framed artwork on the walls, a handmade chess set of African political figurines, a gift from Ana Claudia to her father. Closer to home are Asian influences; a carved painted mirror from Thailand, Chinese blue and white ceramics, several Chinese cabinets, a beige lounge chair designed by lady architect Eduarda Almendra who was responsible for designing the lounge furniture for the Macau Handover.  “Then there’s my husband’s statuette collection of his namesake Saint Antonio, given by friends and family over the years.  And books on photography, Antonio’s biggest hobby is photography, many of his photographs are featured in various publications, such as Halftone”.

Leaving their business in South Africa, the lifestyle, the beautiful beaches and the excellent schools there and moving to Macau was a major decision for the Soteros but they have no regrets. “Macau is a very safe place.  It’s given us a lovely life and a way to have an open mind to so many different cultures.  At times I felt guilty uprooting the children from their friends and school in South Africa but Macau has exposed them to so many cultures and made them the people that they are – open minded, ready to try anything.  A lot of their success is due to the exposure from Macau. In South Africa it’s a big deal to take a trip of a few miles from Durban to Johannesburg.  Here we travel often around Asia, thinking little of going from Macau to China, to Singapore, to favourite places in Thailand, to Vietnam, to Korea, all these fascinating different cultures at our doorstep. Macau gave us all a different perspective on life, of people and cultures. And Macau gave me an opportunity for my business Maalé to flourish, with access to materials – I used to go to buy in Guangdong, now we just go on line to Tao Bao!”

Article written by Suzanne Watkinson of Ambiente Properties, for the Macau Closer magazine Home Affairs section, November-December 2023. Photos: Suzanne

A 3-bedroom apartment in Pearl on the Lough, Macau, is the home of horseracing experts Jayne and Joe Lau. With a colour palate of blues, yellows and creams, a relaxed comfortable vibe has been created.

Dianna and Jeff Brown share their garden terrace in the heart of World Heritage Penha Hill area of Macau.

Two years ago, Dianna and Jeff Brown moved to a friend’s apartment in the Fountainside residences while they were renovating their own home just across the street. The work was to be extensive and take several months, so they took most of their possessions – furniture, books, and balcony plants – with them to the temporary place. Fast forward in time, “We’re still here!” laughs Dianna. “We rented our own apartment once the renovation work was finished and the income helps towards the rent we pay to our friend to stay on in Fountainside.” “We absolutely love this Penha hill area” explains Dianna. “When Jeff and I got married we soon decided to buy our own place and we chose here. It’s mostly low-rise, low-density homes for locals, convenient for walking everywhere and we’re in the heart of so many World Heritage buildings; the Mandarin House, Lilau Square, San Lourenco church and other lovely buildings, Government House, the Bella Vista just round the corner. We can be in Senado Square in ten minutes and down the hill is Nam Van lake from where we can even see the fireworks. It’s very central, but still away from most of the tourists. Shopping nearby is good too: we have New Yaohan, the San Lourenco fruit and vegetable stalls and fresh market and Royal Supermarket, all within a pleasant stroll from home.” “And opposite Fountainside is the Hoi Sing Catholic school” adds Jeff. “At Christmas time we so enjoy hearing the students singing carols”.

 The apartment is just over 1,000 square feet, made up of 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a very compact kitchen and a living-dining room that opens on to a huge 1,500 sq ft terrace. A big deciding factor to stay on here rather than move back to their own place was the terrace, which for Dianna, a keen gardener, became her passion. “Since I was about six, I’ve enjoyed gardening. When I was young my family lived in Guangdong and I used to grow vegetables on little spare patches of land near home.” From the look of the healthy plants and flowers Dianna has nurtured on the terrace, she clearly has ‘green fingers’.

“The terrace does get a lot of wind so perhaps that’s why I don’t seem to have much success with vegetables here,” ponders Dianna. “My orchids on the other hand, which I keep in a shaded protected corner of the terrace, are doing really well. And all the other plants seem to really thrive. Many of the plants and flowers you see are self-seeded.”

Born in Guangdong, as a teenager Dianna arrived with her family in Macau in the 80’s and was raised here. Jeff, an American from Long Beach, California met Dianna when she was traveling with friends in the US in 2001. Their’s is a charming love story – they met in a bar, started chatting and were immediately smitten with each other! Jeff visited Dianna in Macau during the height of SARS, and undeterred by the travel logistics at the time, he returned in 2003 and they got married. For the past 31 years Dianna has worked as a legal assistant. Able to speak, read and write in Cantonese, Mandarin and English, her language skill set and cheerful, can-do attitude and personality have been in much demand by law firms. “I prepare public deeds and contracts. I love my job as I get to meet such a lot of very interesting people.”

Jeff’s background is in filmmaking: “I worked for a short while in Hollywood, but it was very challenging breaking in to the big movie and TV scene.” He therefore combined his filmmaking with other computer and data base operations skills and became a project manager in aerial mapping, filming from helicopters for Google and private clients. When he arrived in Macau, Jeff first taught at St. Josephs. In 2008 he joined Cirque du Soleil which was opening their show in Macau. They initially hired him part-time for the props department and he eventually ended up working with the show’s lighting department. “I had a fantastic time with Cirque, the people were wonderful, such diversity, 27 nationalities. A really friendly and fun place to work, so I was very sad when the show had to close.” Today he teaches conversational English to local students helping to build their confidence, vocabulary and grammar skills.

Both avid readers, the Brown’s home is full of books; when the book cases are full, stacks of books in the corner of the bedroom serve as a bedside table, or lined along a wall or end of the bed as a resting place for other treasures. When she’s not gardening, or reading about gardening, Dianna pours over books on travel, cooking, art and knitting. She is a keen embroiderer and seamstress; several of her beautiful and lovingly handmade quilts cover the beds and are draped on the back of the sofa adding to the laidback, cozy feel of the apartment.

“Some of the furniture, like our bed and the TV consul has been custom made, but mostly we’ve collected things from our travels or are given things from friends leaving or others selling their homes. The coffee table is from a Hong Kong lady … the Korean chest we’re looking after for a friend.” A magnificent deep red Iranian wool rug takes up most of the living room – a recent purchase from a carpet store in Hong Kong’s Horizon Plaza in Ap Lei Chau.

Over the years Jeff has collected a number of Buddha statues – a stone head surrounded by plants smiles from its pedestal on the terrace, and inside some smaller statues with gentle faces give a sense of serenity and calm. Scented candles add a soft perfume to the air and an enchanting collection of Dianna’s very realistic handmade persimmons in orange, green and yellow are laid out in threes and fours in long trays as offerings to the statues. Though the kitchen is small “Dianna is a great cook and manages to make some delicious meals for us.

We also enjoy eating out often,” explains Jeff. Both now in their 60’s, Jeff and Dianna appreciate Macau for its convenience to Hong Kong and places further afield in Asia. “Macau is small, which is positive and negative; we like it because getting around is convenient, but Jeff gets restless and can feel bored here, so getting away on a regular basis is important to us.”

Text and photographs by Suzanne Watkinson; article for the Macau Closer magazine.

Canadian-Hong Kong couple Mark and Tina Chau fell in love with Macau 30 years ago and eventually decided to buy a holiday home here in one of the original lake-side residences.

From the late 90’s when they left Canada and moved back to Hong Kong to be closer to elderly parents, Mark and Tina Chau would regularly hop on a ferry and spend weekends escaping their frenetic life-style to enjoy Macau’s laid-back vibe and great food.  “We’d come over on a Friday evening, pick up our mini-moke rental from across the ferry terminal, I’d always choose a red one!”, laughs Tina, “and off we’d go, first to settle into our hotel, a quick shower and then out for dinner.  In the late 80’s there wasn’t much English being spoken so it was helpful that we speak Cantonese … back then and to this day we love exploring the small back streets and the lovely buildings of ‘old’ Macau.  We’d often get terribly lost so would have to ask for directions and this is how we discovered some wonderful ‘hole in the wall’ local restaurants and tea houses.”   

Gradually the Chaus built up a network of friends who would join them on their Macau-getaways. It was then that several couples decided to team up and buy a holiday home which they could share. “We all preferred to be on the peninsula and loved the old-world charm of Sai Wan lake with its banyan trees and our favourite haunt, Henri’s restaurant, just minutes’ walk away.”  This was in the early 2000’s when Macau was still quite a sleepy one-casino town; there was no Cotai strip, it was before all the major new building developments such as Kingsville, Manhattan, Pacifica, Windsor Arch, One Oasis and the 3 newer ‘Novas’ in central Taipa.  “Taipa was a building site back then and in any case, although we really love the Old Taipa Village, we tended to be ‘Macau-side folks’”, smiles Tina.

The Chaus and their friends eventually chose a 3-bedroom mid-floor apartment in the 7-storey low-rise Dai Heng Dai Ha (translated as ‘Happy Mansion’) nestled at the edge of Penha Hill and on Sai Van’s Praia Grande.   Reputed to be home at various stages for members of Stanley Ho’s family and of previous Chief Executives when growing up, the U-shaped building was the first residence, built in 1965, on what was originally paddy fields that lined the coast back in the 40’s and 50’s.  “We learned from local contractors that unlike the cheaper quick-builds common over the past 20 years of many residential developments in Macau, Dai Heng is really solidly built with thick walls and properly reinforced floors, so the apartments are beautifully sound-proof”, describes Mark.  “As an engineer this is important to me, I don’t want to hear neighbours clattering above or below me.”

The Chau’s apartment had been home to a family of 7 children but was in generally good condition needing only the kitchen remodeled to incorporate a housekeeper’s room and bathroom and two new bathrooms.  “We left the layout pretty much as is, with its 3 good-sized double bedrooms and the balcony overlooking the central building courtyard and out on to the lake.  We’ve even left the original wood parquet flooring which we all decided gives the place character and warmth.  All new windows, an electric upgrade, modern appliances, new air conditioners of course, and a lick of paint and we were good to go.”

Both Mark and Tina are retired now – Mark worked for many years with Hong Kong’s Mass Transit Railway (MTR) and Tina was a marketing executive for an office furnishing company – so are delighted that Covid travel restrictions are over, borders are open and they can spend more time in their beloved Macau. “Oh, how we missed not being able to visit for so long,” says Tina.  “We had our real estate agent take care of the apartment in our absence so they kept the place aired, cleaned.  It was great being able to come over last month and arrive to clean sheets on the bed, fresh towels in the bathroom, coffee, croissants, milk and eggs in the fridge; property management at its best!”

When furnishing the apartment the Chaus have kept things simple, minimal.  “Back in 2005 I bought several things from the Repulse Bay hotel and apartments in Hong Kong when they were having a clear out of older furniture in their stores.  Great pieces, built to last, and we’ve treasured them.  The master bed for example came from there.  And whilst we’ve put in a new mattress, the original teak wood frame is a thing of beauty.  The horseshoe back chair and the arm chair, also came from Repulse Bay, we just recovered them.  Being in the furniture business, I absolutely hate perfectly good furniture being thrown away, such a waste!”

The white wood furniture came from Indigo, the designer furniture store in Horizon Plaza, Hong Kong.  “They were having a clear out, the things were brand new but on sale.  The side-board in the dining room, that’s another lovely piece, that came from a friend leaving Macau.  I think we paid MOP800 for it.  And the two huge framed mirrors, the dark brown one in the master bedroom and the yellow one with matching consul table in the dining room – believe it or not these came from the home of my then boss who was changing his décor and gave them to us.  That was almost 20 years ago and these things still have a modern feel, we love them, they seem timeless.”  

After the remodeling the kitchen is big enough for a breakfast nook which Mark and Tina say they use all the time when its just the two of them.  The painted red square wood table is about 60 years old and a treasured possession.  “The top comes off and the legs fold – it was used in Chinese opera performances, easy to dismantle and carry around from venue to venue.  We bought it in Lamma Island, Hong Kong and an old friend spent a number of weeks carefully restoring it and then he left a plaque with his name and the date in a hidden corner underneath. He died years ago but his legacy remains with us through this table.”  

Most of the walls are painted white which keeps the apartment ambiance light and bright.  To give a pop, some character, depth and warmth, a red feature wall in the dining room and pale caramel in the living and master bedroom were added.

“Our window treatments, again simple, white, always come from curtain shop Fiona at the Red Market.  “We’ve known Fiona for well over 15 years, her service is quick, efficient and we find her prices to be very fair.”

The artwork consists of a small original Denis Murrell above the bed in the guest room, and two black, grey and white originals from Brian Tilbrook.  Both well-known artists – Australian-born artist Murrell, 36 years in Macau and Englishman Tilbrook, over 50 years in Hong Kong.  The framed wood paddle, originally from Indigo, came from a friend here in Macau who was selling a lot of his furnishing when renovating his apartment.

“Buying this apartment has been one of the best things we could have done”, stresses Mark. “Dai Heng is a great building.  It’s in a wonderful quiet and safe neighbourhood that’s nearly all owner-occupied with a mix of Macanese, Portuguese, local Chinese, Hong Kongers and a sprinkling of expats like ourselves.  We’ve been able to lock up and leave knowing the place is secure.  It’s also very conveniently located; there’s a bus stop right outside the courtyard entrance and its 6 stops to down town.  And any day now the new underground Barra transport interchange with its connection to the Light Rail train to Taipa will open round the corner. This will be a game-changer for many living in the western peninsula and working in Cotai – they can get the bus, taxi or drive and park at the interchange and catch the train in to work.”

The Chaus clearly adore Macau but would they consider moving here permanently?  “We are happy keeping a home in Hong Kong and a home in Macau as we get the best of both worlds,” smiles Tina. “Let’s see; perhaps gradually we’ll spend more and more time here.  Every time we arrive, we sort of decompress.  We enjoy getting up late, having coffee on the balcony, we love our evening walks around the lake and chilling out over a cold beer at Ali’s or Henri’s.  But on the other hand, our life in Hong Kong is fun, family-oriented and we have access to plenty of art, music, entertainment and associations we belong to, so we’d not want to give up that.  So let see!”

Article written for Macau Closer Home Affairs by Suzanne Watkinson. Photos by Suzanne Watkinson